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$5.38Ships in 3-5 Business Days
A dishwasher looks like a box with racks, but it is really a small plumbing and pumping system. It fills with a measured amount of water, heats it, recirculates it under pressure through spray arms, drains it, and repeats. When it stops cleaning, leaks, won't fill or leaves standing water in the tub, the cause is usually one of a handful of parts: the racks and roller assemblies, the door gasket, the drain pump, the circulation (wash) pump, or the water inlet valve.
Most of those failures are repairable. A cracked dish rack, a set of worn rack wheels or a leaking door gasket can make a perfectly good dishwasher feel like it needs to be replaced. Pumps and inlet valves fail too, but they are field-replaceable on the major platforms. Supco dishwasher parts are built to fit the brands techs see most, including Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, GE, Frigidaire, Bosch, Samsung and LG.
The most reliable way to get the right part is to start with the model number (usually on a label along the inner edge of the door or the side of the tub) and match the OEM part number from the manufacturer's parts list.
At the start of the cycle, the control opens the water inlet valve, a solenoid valve under the front of the tub fed by the household hot water line. Most dishwashers meter fill by time and use a float switch as an overfill safety. Water collects in the sump at the bottom of the tub.
The circulation pump, sometimes called the wash motor, then pushes that water up through the spray arms. Many models heat the water with an element or an inline heater in the pump circuit. Filters in the sump trap food particles. At the end of each wash and rinse step, the drain pump moves water out through the drain hose to the disposer or drain line, usually routed with a high loop or air gap to prevent backflow.
Inside the tub, the lower and upper racks ride on roller wheels and rails. The upper rack typically uses an adjuster assembly on each side and rollers that ride in a track. The door gasket, a rubber or foam seal around the tub opening, keeps spray inside the machine.
Dishwasher parts are highly model-specific, even within a single brand. Use the model number to locate the OEM part number, and compare it to the numbers listed on the Supco product page.
| Part | Typical Failure | What to Check First | Selection Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dish racks | Rusted tines, broken welds | Coating condition, rack fit | Match upper/lower and tub size |
| Rack rollers | Worn, cracked or missing wheels | Rack rolls level on rails | Replace as a full set by OEM number |
| Door gasket | Hardened, torn, shifted | Leak location at front of tub | Match profile and mounting style |
| Drain pump | Hums, no drain; won't run | Filter, drain hose, disposer knockout | Match orientation and connector |
| Circulation pump | Poor wash, no spray sound | Filters and spray arm holes | Confirm heater and flow specs |
| Water inlet valve | No fill, slow fill, fills when off | Supply valve open, inlet screen | Match voltage, threads, bracket |
Supco has built replacement parts since 1945, and their dishwasher components are made to match OEM fit and function. Every HVAC365 product page lists OEM cross-reference numbers and spec details, so you can verify fit before ordering. Parts in this category ship in 3-5 business days.
Yes, if the rack itself is in good condition. Wheels and roller assemblies are sold separately for most models. If the tines are rusting or the coating is chipping, replace the rack, since rust will transfer to dishes.
A small amount of water in the sump is normal on many models. A large amount usually points to a clogged filter, a kinked drain hose, a disposer whose knockout plug was never removed, or a failed drain pump. Check the simple causes before buying a pump.
The circulation pump is the larger assembly that feeds the spray arms. The drain pump is usually smaller and mounted beside the sump with a hose leading out. The parts diagram for your model will label both.
Often it is the gasket or a separate bottom door seal. It can also be over-sudsing from the wrong detergent, a cracked spray arm aiming water at the door, or an out-of-level unit. Confirm the leak source before replacing the gasket.
It isn't required, but if the existing line is old, kinked or corroded, replacing it at the same time is cheap insurance against a leak under the cabinet.
Rack, roller and gasket swaps are simple. Pump and valve work involves a hardwired electrical connection and water lines, so anyone not comfortable with both should have a qualified appliance technician handle it.
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